jubilima ([info]jubilima) wrote,
@ 2009-04-14 14:35:00
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Gable hoods

Who on my f-list has made a gable hood? I'm not happy with the results I'm getting using the Tudor Tailor technique. Anyone have good luck with the TT or any other construction method?

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[info]myladyswardrobe
2009-04-14 09:17 pm UTC (link)
I've used TT very successfully - though I had the pattern before TT was published of course. The only thing I needed to change was the frame itself - Pattern 33 (page 148) - Undercap/Front. Its the gable shaped bit at the bottom of the page. I will refer to it as the Frame. This needs to be shaped to fit your face. I used lots of cardboard to perfect the shape as its stiff enough to frame the face as it should but is nice and cheap to make plenty of mistakes.

Once that is perfected, then I did the following:
- Cut the Frame from VERY lightweight canvas/buckrum (Aida fabric for embroidery is useful alternative - do you have that in the USA?). Cut from linen and/or silk if you want the visible side to be of silk.

- Wire the canvas outer edge and the inner edge (this is what I did and found it worked very well). Cover with linen. Then cover the visible side with whatever top fabric you have. Line the back of the undercap/Front with linen. If you want to pearl/decorate with anything, I would do it now.

- The rest of it should go together fairly easily: make up the undercap piece (first pattern piece on the page) and stitch to the undercap back and then to the lower edge of the frame. NOT the top edge. The frame will then jut upwards - does that make sense?

- TIP. Instead of covering the entire undercap with domette/padding, I just made three thin rectangles of padding and placed them behind the three main points. Basted them in place and THEN placed the completely made up lappets on top. These I stitched into place along the top edge of the frame and stab stitched at the back to the undercap just to keep it all in place. The Velvet box with "veil" tails is then just pinned into place.

I can take the entire hood apart very easily. I can also easily hear in it - there is no muffling of sound at all.
Would you like me to take photos of it for you? In the meantime have a look at this piccie of me wearing mine.

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[info]koshka_the_cat
2009-04-15 01:05 am UTC (link)
It sounds like I made mine pretty much the same way Bess did. I used buckram for all the pieces though.

I also put striped silk (which I had to paint myself--fun stuff!) in the front part. To make it stand properly on my head, I put linen rolls behind the striped silk.

I'm not 100% satisfied with the drapery bits, as I think the white part needs more coverage, but I am happy with my basic hat part of it. Fortunately that's easy to fix when I get another chance to wear it :)

I took pictures at each step. Here's a link to my Facebook album. I listed it as public, so it should work--let me know if it doesn't.

I may not be crazy about Facebook, but the album feature does seem to be the easiest out there. Plus, lots of people I know from college, so that's good :)

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[info]koshka_the_cat
2009-04-15 06:23 am UTC (link)
Oh--I just remembered something. To get the shape of the frame, first I made the undercap (I think I'm using that right), bent it until I was happy with the shape, traced it and started from there to get the shape of the frame. Sort of backwards, but it worked for me!

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[info]myladyswardrobe
2009-04-15 07:30 am UTC (link)
I buckrummed everything as well except the veil tsils - I acrually used and iron on vilene in those! worked very well indeed.

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